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Post by dshane on Apr 30, 2008 15:51:37 GMT -8
Kizz Thanks for the tip! I don't hear a click at the relay. When ever I wire the anntena lead to power at the radio then turn the ignition on, the antenna comes up with the radio off? I'll check the relay.
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simo
Junior Member
Posts: 121 
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Post by simo on May 3, 2008 21:32:18 GMT -8
Good to see you working on it, any luck with the steering column?
Keep us updated.
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Post by dshane on Jun 1, 2008 17:04:44 GMT -8
Update on steering column. Used bearings for the upper shaft are not advisable, since most lower bearings for upper shaft are trashed. None of the parts stores here or online carry these bearings. Getting the used ones from a salvage yard also require quite of bit of dis-assembly of the column. I went to a GM dealer and they had a rack kit. It includes both bearings with the ignition rack and some ancillary parts. GM#7844651 $54 They would not sell me any J-tools since they are proprietary. Needed a pivot pin removal tool. You have to take the column apart past the tilt pivot pins to install the lower bearing.Went online and found a company that had a pivot tool. www.etool.com had a Lisle brand tool #19940 for $7.50. Shipping was more than the tool $9.50. I have the column rebuilt but lack a clip ring for the column lock plate. Shouldn't be to much to find right size and then install the wheel. Will post a picture when I get wheel installed. |
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Post by dshane on Jun 6, 2008 17:55:19 GMT -8
The steering wheel is finished,almost. What an adventure! Could not get the locking ring fitted. The groove for the snap ring wasn't showing when spring and signal cancelling cam were compressed. Took column back apart to recognize old bearing races still in place. A few taps from a screw driver from opposite sides released them from their seats. New bearings had been forced from there plastic ring in bearing case, just reset them. Re-assembled the column and got the snap ring in the groove. The wheel is back on and looks great,almost.
I did not notice the end of the signal cancelling cam was chipped until I was putting the horn lead together. There is a plastic sleeve with a locking pin protruding above the spring for the horn lead. Its meant to lock in a shallow slot on the signal cancelling cam. That of course is where the piece is chipped off. Just have to get a new/good one. Horn won't work till then.
The wheel is mostly finished. Learned alot on this rebuild. Here's a picture!
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Post by TAdan on Jun 11, 2008 5:00:42 GMT -8
Glad to hear your making progress. Where is the pic of the wheel?  |
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Post by dshane on Jun 20, 2008 16:15:52 GMT -8
Sorry guys, forgot how to post pic and left town. I'll give it another try.
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Post by dshane on Jun 20, 2008 18:56:27 GMT -8
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Post by dshane on Jul 19, 2008 14:36:20 GMT -8
Trying to decide if I should tackle pulling the engine and tranny for rebuild? Any one with hindsight or advice? What should be done to motor without going over board? Would like to keep original but understand the smog stuff is less than desirable? convert to carb? any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by dshane on Jan 10, 2009 19:17:03 GMT -8
Update on my slow progress. Can't get the motor to turn over. This past fall with the spark plugs removed I put mineral oil in the cylinders. Nothing moving after tried to start. Thought starter may be locked up. Only acted like it was clicking in the starter sometimes and later was smoking. I have replaced with delco starter. Engaging now but still not turning motor. Got advice to fill cylinders with ATF and let sit for a couple of weeks. On my second dousing and still no movement. Tried to put wrench on front of crank pulley housing but afraid to put to much pressure on bolt for fear of breaking. The flywheel housing is off and will be another part to find at the junk yard. Tried to move this with flat pry bar and small jack to no avail. any one with any other suggestion would be appreciated. I also found a front lower 1 PC aero ground efx. Kept watching Ebay and only found damaged ones or one for $500.00. Got on to Craigs List and found one several miles across town for $45.00 and in great shape. Got lucky on that part. Its gold and will need repainted at some point. Put back on car to prevent any damage. Will put pic's of ground efx on later. Doug
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Post by TAdan on Jan 12, 2009 6:29:42 GMT -8
Doug, you should have been able to turn the engine over by hand when you had the wrench on the crank pulley... Hmmm
What do you know about the motor? Has it turned over at all since you've had the car or has it always been seized up?
Pullng the engine and trans is fairly straight forward. You can pull them together or seperately. You'll just need a good engine hoist. You may want to pull the front bumper cover and hood while you do it to have more clearance.
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Post by dshane on Jan 14, 2009 19:47:49 GMT -8
TADan I purchased the car from a coworker who had let it set since about 2000-2001 with the plugs out. The last time it was licensed was 2000.Car was covered but he never did anything with it. I did notice the flywheel cover had been taken off. Oil was very dirty and a few of the engine components had been scavenged. I assume it was froze due to sitting and have been trying to un-freeze it. I'm been waiting for some warm weather and time since i last lubed the plug holes/pistons. If that fails I'll undertake my first engine pull. Thanks for the advice. Doug
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